Mr. Burkholder's suggestion to include a calibration grayscale or step tablet on the negative is mandatory during calibration and and useful when the expressiveness of the final print is less than you desire. It will also save time if you change paper (either negative or photographic), developer, computers, OR if the printer manufacturer changes the print driver.
To test for perfect black and perfect white, I prefer to use a scale with only the upper 10% and lower 10% values (the "high value band" and "low value band" from Step 1).
![]() |
|
![]() |
After the negative has been printed (and dried, if necessary), I have found it useful to place tape across part of the 100% density end of the grayscale, and cut away a strip of negative material in the 0% black end of the grayscale. The tape will prevent any light from reaching the photographic paper and will assure maximum white. The hole will provide extra exposure and assure the maximum black. In this manner, areas of the image with 0% black (Photoshop value 255) will be pure white on the print, and Photoshop value 0 will print as black. Examination of the scales shown enlarged below, will verify correct exposure and contrast, and show any deviation of white and black from the maximum.
There is a strong possibility that the negative WILL change slightly over time, as will the light source, AND your paper emulsion.
|
|
BE SURE to perform ALL image manipulation items (1 thru 5) BEFORE converting to INDEXED COLOR mode (item 6)!
|
RETURN HOME